Friday, November 24, 2006

Sveti Naum Monastery

Last weekend I visited the Sveti Naum Monastery on the shores of Lake Ohrid in Macedonia. The lake is said to be the largest in the Balkans, and it is certainly one of, if not the biggest I can ever remember seeing.




The monastery is in a lovely setting, the small historic chapel is beautiful and the fresco’s inside impressive. A slightly bizarre and unexpected sight was the ten or so colourful peacocks on the roof of the chapel and around the grounds. I tasted and ended up buying some delicious local honey there. It’s funny how word gets around about these sorts of things to look out for and try.




Ohrid itself is proclaimed on several signs around town as a ‘City of Unesco’, the central ‘old’ city is heritage protected. There are a series of pedestrian streets, paved with marble, and while full of tourist focused bars, shops and restaurants, it has a nice feel to it. Unfortunately due to the training course I was there for (its not all fun and games) I was unable to explore the city during daylight hours and get any decent photos…

A New Country?

Status

The presentation of the Ahtisaari package has been delayed again to allow for the Serbian elections scheduled in January. This package outlines the recommendations for the future status of Kosovo/a. The presentation of the package comes after an extended and delayed process of discussion and negotiation this year, but still does not represent the end point. There will need to be time for Pristina and then Belgrade to read and analyse the package. Then the Security Council will go over it. This puts the decision on status back several more months, though many are still hopeful for a mid year decision.

How amazing could it be, to be at the birth of a new country?!

How scary could it be if it all goes to shit? There are concerns that these delays run the risk the population getting too restless and lead to a repeat of the March 2004 riots .

It’s been a long and difficult road and many still feel there is no right way to decide status – let alone implement it. The ethnic tension is amazingly high in some parts of the country – it is said to be worse than ever before. In Mitrovice/a there is almost a complete stand off on either side of the river, with no official cooperation between administrations possible. Making the stated task of many agencies near impossible to undertake, including UN Habitat and spatial planning support team.

How can you plan effectively for a divided city?

The duplication of services and infrastructure on each side of the river makes very little sense given the relatively small size (in both area and population) of the northern part of the city. But this looks like the way forward for the near future and somehow we have to find a way to assist the local planners to plan for and hopefully improve the standard of life in this unique place.

Friday, November 03, 2006

First Snow



Yesterday was the first snow for the season here in Kosovo. It was just beautiful!
I've rarely been able to walk through a city street with lightly falling fluffy snow before, it almost makes the freezing cold weather bearable!
Almost.